The Art of Building a Jewelry Wardrobe

SHAY Jewelry began with a chain link bracelet that Tania Shayan designed at fifteen and sold, unplanned, into a Beverly Hills boutique. Her mother, Ladan Vahdat, an antique jewelry collector, saw the potential in the design and joined her to build it into a fine jewelry house built on stacking, layering, and everyday wear.

SHAY began with a bracelet Tania designed as a teenager. What do you remember about that first piece and the moment it became something more?

Tania Shayan: I was about fifteen and wanted to make a bracelet for myself, so I drew a design and found a jeweler who could produce it. It was a chain link bracelet with leather woven through it. At first, it was simply something I wanted to wear, and then I started giving versions of it to friends and family. People began asking where they could find one, and the interest grew quickly. My mother suggested that we take the bracelet to a store. We went to a Beverly Hills boutique, where the owner bought the sample and placed an order. That was the beginning of SHAY.

Ladan, what did you recognize in Tania's design that made you believe it could become the foundation of a brand?

Ladan Vahdat: I saw that it had a strong identity, but it was also easy to wear. The link was distinctive without feeling overly complicated, and it could work with different personal styles. Tania had created it instinctively, but there was already a clear point of view in the design. I had always loved jewelry, collected antique pieces, and paid close attention to craftsmanship, so I understood the potential of developing the idea further. The response from the first store confirmed that other people saw something in it too. From there, we began building a collection around the same sense of character and versatility.

How did a personal project evolve into SHAY as a jewelry house?

Tania Shayan: In the beginning, we created costume jewelry, and the business developed through the response from customers and retailers. We soon received many inquiries about pieces made with natural gemstones and precious materials, so moving into fine jewelry was a natural progression. We were also responding to something we felt was missing at the time. There were highly traditional luxury houses and there were more accessible custom pieces, but fewer options for jewelry that felt elevated, personal, and current. We wanted to create pieces that could be worn every day, styled in different ways, and still feel special.

Your work is closely associated with stacking, layering, and mixing pieces. What does that approach make possible for the wearer?

Ladan Vahdat: It allows jewelry to become part of someone's own vocabulary. A piece does not have to be reserved for one type of occasion or worn in only one way. A bracelet can be stacked with several others, a choker can be layered with longer necklaces, and rings can be combined according to mood or personal style. We like the fact that the collection can move between a relaxed day and a more formal evening. The jewelry has its own presence, but it also leaves room for the wearer to make decisions. That flexibility is central to how we think about a jewelry wardrobe.

How do your different strengths shape the way you run SHAY?

Tania Shayan: We are both involved in the creative direction, and we share a very similar taste, but our strengths have become more defined as the company has grown. I am more focused on the business side and on the details of how each piece comes together. I also personally inspect the jewelry before it is sent to a customer or retailer. My mother brings a great deal of creativity, optimism, and willingness to take risks. She encourages us to move beyond what feels familiar, while I often bring a more contemporary and measured perspective. The balance between those instincts has been very useful to us.

Ladan, how does your background as a collector influence the jewelry you create with Tania?

Ladan Vahdat: Antique jewelry continues to be an important source of inspiration. I have always been drawn to pieces with a sense of history, especially Victorian and Art Deco designs, architectural forms, baguette diamonds, and celestial motifs such as moons and starbursts. That interest does not mean we reproduce the past exactly. We look at the details, proportions, and feeling of an older piece, then consider how to make those elements relevant now. Some of our designs also reinterpret vintage or estate jewelry in a more contemporary way. The result is meant to feel connected to tradition while remaining easy to wear.

What does the creative process look like when you are designing together?

Tania Shayan: It is quite spontaneous. An idea may arrive at any time, so we often make quick sketches, write notes, or record voice memos before it disappears. My mother has been known to think of something in the middle of the night and call me to discuss it. We then work through the design together, adding or removing details until it feels resolved. Because we have such similar taste, we can usually tell when a piece is working and when it still needs attention. We do not necessarily design according to a strict seasonal schedule. The process begins when an idea feels strong enough to pursue.

What is the advantage of having such a close personal relationship at the center of the business?

Ladan Vahdat: Trust is the greatest advantage. We know that we can rely on each other, and we know that every decision is being made with the best interests of SHAY in mind. That creates a strong foundation for creative work, because neither of us is second-guessing the other's intentions. The challenge is maintaining boundaries. We are both passionate about the company, so it can easily enter every conversation, including family dinners and time that should be reserved for something else. We have had to learn to recognize when it is time to stop talking about work and simply be together.

Tania, what do you hope a customer feels when she chooses a SHAY piece?

Tania Shayan: I hope she feels that the piece belongs in her life rather than waiting in a safe for a special occasion. Jewelry should be beautiful, but it should also be worn and enjoyed. We pay close attention to the quality of the materials, the construction, and the way a piece sits on the body, because those details affect how often someone will reach for it. At the same time, the most important consideration is personal connection. A woman should choose something because she genuinely loves it and can imagine wearing it in her own way. That emotional response is what gives jewelry lasting value.

SHAY's designs can feel bold and refined at the same time. How do you find that balance?

Ladan Vahdat: We are interested in pieces that have a clear presence but do not overwhelm the person wearing them. A strong link, an architectural silhouette, or a substantial diamond can make a statement, but the proportions and finish still need to feel comfortable and considered. Tania and I often ask whether we would both wear the piece ourselves. If the answer is not yes for both of us, we continue working on it. We also think about how a design will interact with other jewelry. Even a more expressive piece should have enough versatility to become part of someone's existing collection.

After more than two decades, what continues to guide the future of SHAY?

Tania Shayan: We want to keep developing the language that began with the original link bracelet while allowing the brand to grow naturally. That means exploring new forms, new materials, and new categories without losing the qualities that make SHAY recognizable. We are interested in further capsule collections, collaborations, and personalized services, including custom engagement jewelry. The aim is not to follow every trend, but to continue making pieces that feel current and personal. Our relationship remains at the center of the process. We are still designing from a shared point of view, while bringing our individual strengths to everything we create.