The Art of Calming the Skin
Dr. Barbara Sturm speaks with VOL Collective about translating orthopaedic research into skincare, building a brand around inflammation, and why healthy skin begins with restraint.

Your career began in orthopaedics rather than beauty. What did that medical background teach you about the skin?
My background in orthopaedics taught me to look at the body as a connected system and to understand inflammation as a central part of many health concerns. In my medical work, I saw how the body’s own healing factors could support the repair of inflamed joints. That made me think about whether similar principles could be applied to the skin. I became interested in skincare not as a separate world of beauty, but as an extension of medicine and biology. The skin is our largest organ, and it responds to what we put on it, how we treat it, and how we live.
What led you to create your first products?
I was initially trying to solve my own skin concerns. I had experienced dryness, blackheads, and sensitivity, and I had tried many different treatments without finding a routine that worked for me. At the same time, my patients were asking for a complete skincare regimen that reflected the principles behind my medical treatments. I could not find products that I felt comfortable recommending, so I decided to develop them myself. I began by studying the research around commonly used skincare ingredients and identifying what I believed could support the skin without creating unnecessary irritation. The process was slow, rigorous, and very personal.

Anti-inflammatory skincare has become widely discussed, but it has been the foundation of your work for many years. How do you define the concept?
For me, an anti-inflammatory approach means respecting the skin’s natural functions and avoiding unnecessary aggression. Skin does not always need to be challenged in order to improve. Excessive exfoliation, overuse of strong ingredients, and constantly changing products can compromise the skin barrier and create irritation. I believe skincare should help the skin remain balanced, hydrated, and resilient. This does not mean ignoring individual concerns or avoiding science. It means applying science thoughtfully and choosing ingredients and formulations that support the skin rather than overwhelming it. I often describe this as an anti-inflammatory lifestyle because the principle extends beyond the bathroom shelf.
Your work has often been described as a meeting point between science and aesthetics. How do those two disciplines inform one another?
Science gives us the understanding, discipline, and evidence to develop products responsibly. Aesthetics brings sensitivity to proportion, texture, experience, and the way people interact with a product. I do not see those elements as opposites. A product can be scientifically considered and still feel beautiful to use. In my clinics, I learned that people want results, but they also want to feel cared for. The ritual matters because it influences whether someone will use a product consistently and attentively. For me, the most interesting work happens when medical knowledge is translated into something clear, elegant, and practical for everyday life.
The MC1 cream was developed using proteins derived from your own blood. What was important to you about that idea?
The important principle was the use of the body’s own healing factors. My medical research had shown me that proteins from a person’s blood could play a role in addressing inflammation and supporting the healing process. I wanted to explore whether that idea could be translated into a topical skincare treatment. The development required research, testing, and collaboration with chemists. It was not about creating a product for novelty. It was about applying a medical insight to a skin concern in a way that was individual and purposeful. That work became the basis for MC1, which was originally made for patients and later led to broader interest in the brand.
Your products are known for a relatively streamlined approach. Why is simplicity so important in a skincare routine?
A simple routine makes it easier to understand what your skin needs and how it responds. When people use too many products at once, it becomes difficult to know what is helping and what may be causing irritation. I believe the essential steps are cleansing gently, providing hydration, supporting the skin barrier, and protecting the skin from environmental stress. The routine should be consistent rather than complicated. Simplicity also creates space for observation. Your skin changes with age, climate, stress, sleep, and health, so it is important to pay attention rather than automatically add another product whenever a new concern appears.
You have spoken about resisting trends and short lived ingredient obsessions. How do you decide what deserves a place in a formulation?
I begin with the question of what the skin actually needs. An ingredient should have a clear purpose, and the formulation as a whole should be well tolerated and effective. I am interested in research, but I am not interested in using a fashionable ingredient simply because it is receiving attention. Trends can encourage people to move too quickly from one idea to the next, while the skin often benefits from patience and consistency. We look at the quality of the ingredient, its role within the formula, and how it supports the skin over time. The development process should be guided by biology, not by the speed of the beauty cycle.
How has working directly with patients shaped the brand?
My patients have always been an important source of insight. Real skin concerns are more varied and more nuanced than the categories often used in the beauty industry. Working with people in a clinical setting teaches you to listen carefully and to observe how skin responds over time. It also reminds you that no two people have exactly the same needs. The brand grew from that direct relationship. I wanted to create products that could be understood and used at home, while remaining connected to the standards and questions that guide my medical work. Continuing to hear from patients and the wider community keeps the development process grounded.
You built the business while continuing to work as a doctor and raising your daughter. What kept you moving forward in the early years?
I had a clear belief in what I was trying to create, even though I did not begin with a conventional beauty business background. In the early years, I financed the skincare work through my medical practice and stayed closely involved in every part of the process. There were periods when the clinic was quiet and the business required patience. I was also raising my daughter, so the work had to exist alongside real responsibilities. What sustained me was the medical purpose behind the products. I was motivated by the possibility of helping people feel better in their skin, not by the idea of building a large company.

What do you hope people understand when they encounter Dr. Barbara Sturm today?
I hope they understand that the brand is rooted in a way of thinking, not only in individual products. The central idea is to treat the skin with respect and to support its natural ability to remain healthy. That requires good ingredients, careful formulation, education, and consistency. It also requires acknowledging that skin health is connected to the rest of the body. Sleep, nutrition, stress, movement, and the environment all matter. Skincare cannot replace those things, but it can become part of a more considered approach to wellbeing. I want the brand to make sophisticated science feel approachable, useful, and relevant to daily life.

